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DO TRAJE TRADICIONAL À JOALHARIA CONTEMPORÂNEA
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Authors
Abstract(s)
O presente trabalho, intitulado Do traje tradicional à joalharia contemporânea: o traje tradicional feminino como base para uma representação de identidades insulares através de uma coleção de joias – os casos dos Açores, Madeira e Córsega, visa demonstrar a importância do traje tradicional feminino enquanto fator de identidade(s) e cultura(s). Assume-se, no presente estudo, a centralidade da figura feminina pela riqueza e simbologia dos trajes tradicionais destinados às mulheres, em Portugal e nas regiões estudadas (Açores, Madeira e Córsega). Parte-se de um conjunto de conceitos nucleares, como identidade (Hall, Hawkes, Wieviorka, Maalouf, Morin, Hartley, por exemplo) e cultura (Cuche, Ferin, Bettencourt Pires, entre outros) e contemporaneidade (Agamben, Baross, Morin, em particular), para se empreender uma contextualização dos trajes dos arquipélagos em análise que permita identificar correntes de pensamento, marcas temporais e elementos espaciais. Tomou-se como referência o traje minhoto, pela concentração de motivos e adornos representativos da cultura portuguesa, e procurou-se seguir os fundamentos da estética contemporânea na coleção de joalharia proposta (na linha de Zilioli, Bártolo, Campos, em particular).
O enquadramento teórico permitirá compreender a relação entre os objetos materiais e os traços identitários, e o modo como as joias criadas com vista a serem integradas nos trajes insulares representam e atualizam traços identitários, além de capacitarem as populações insulares num mundo em mudança e marcado por relações de poder assimétricas. Ao longo do estudo, a análise focará questões ligadas ao poder, à dinâmica política e à evolução socioeconómica das ilhas, sobressaindo a heterogénea condição em que cada arquipélago se situa no respeitante a estes parâmetros, a par das semelhanças que podem ser encontradas entre eles.
This work, entitled From traditional costume to contemporary jewellery: traditional women's costume as the basis for a representation of island identities through a jewellery collection - the cases of the Azores, Madeira and Corsica, aims to demonstrate the importance of traditional women's costume as a factor of identity(ies) and culture(ies). This study assumes the centrality of the female figure due to the richness and symbolism of traditional women's costumes in Portugal and in the regions studied (Azores, Madeira and Corsica). It starts from a set of core concepts, such as identity (Hall, Hawkes, Wieviorka, Maalouf, Morin, Hartley, for example), culture (Cuche, Ferin, Bettencourt Pires, among others) and contemporaneity (Agamben, Baros, Morin, in particular), in order to undertake a contextualisation of the costumes of the archipelagos under analysis that allows us to identify currents of thought, temporal marks and spatial elements. The Minho costume was taken as a reference, due to its concentration of motifs and adornments representative of Portuguese culture, and an attempt was made to follow the fundamentals of contemporary aesthetics in the proposed jewellery collection (along the lines of Zilioli, Bártolo, Campos, in particular). The theoretical framework provides the backdrop from which jewellery created to be integrated into island costumes represents and updates identity traits, as well as empowering island populations in a changing world marked by asymmetrical power relations. Throughout the study, the analysis will focus on issues related to power, political dynamics and the socio-economic evolution of the islands, highlighting the heterogeneous condition in which each archipelago finds itself in terms of these parameters, along with the similarities that can be found between them.
This work, entitled From traditional costume to contemporary jewellery: traditional women's costume as the basis for a representation of island identities through a jewellery collection - the cases of the Azores, Madeira and Corsica, aims to demonstrate the importance of traditional women's costume as a factor of identity(ies) and culture(ies). This study assumes the centrality of the female figure due to the richness and symbolism of traditional women's costumes in Portugal and in the regions studied (Azores, Madeira and Corsica). It starts from a set of core concepts, such as identity (Hall, Hawkes, Wieviorka, Maalouf, Morin, Hartley, for example), culture (Cuche, Ferin, Bettencourt Pires, among others) and contemporaneity (Agamben, Baros, Morin, in particular), in order to undertake a contextualisation of the costumes of the archipelagos under analysis that allows us to identify currents of thought, temporal marks and spatial elements. The Minho costume was taken as a reference, due to its concentration of motifs and adornments representative of Portuguese culture, and an attempt was made to follow the fundamentals of contemporary aesthetics in the proposed jewellery collection (along the lines of Zilioli, Bártolo, Campos, in particular). The theoretical framework provides the backdrop from which jewellery created to be integrated into island costumes represents and updates identity traits, as well as empowering island populations in a changing world marked by asymmetrical power relations. Throughout the study, the analysis will focus on issues related to power, political dynamics and the socio-economic evolution of the islands, highlighting the heterogeneous condition in which each archipelago finds itself in terms of these parameters, along with the similarities that can be found between them.
Description
Tese de Doutoramento, Literaturas e Culturas Insulares, 10 de fevereiro de 2025, Universidade dos Açores.
Keywords
Açores Madeira Córsega Identidade Cultura Traje Tradicional Joalharia
Citation
Castro, Sylvie Alves. (2024). "DO TRAJE TRADICIONAL À JOALHARIA CONTEMPORÂNEA: O traje tradicional feminino como base para uma representação de identidades insulares através de uma coleção de joias – os casos dos Açores, Madeira e Córsega". 221 p. (Tese de Doutoramento em Literaturas e Culturas Insulares). Ponta Delgada: Universidade dos Açores, 2024. Disponível em http://hdl.handle.net/10400.3/8639