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Barreto, Maria do Carmo

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  • New Phytol Derivatives with Increased Cosmeceutical Potential
    Publication . Rosa, Gonçalo P.; Seca, Ana M. L.; Pinto, Diana. C. G. A.; Barreto, Maria Do Carmo
    Natural compounds are widely incorporated into cosmetic products for many purposes. Diterpenes often function as fragrances, enhancing the sensory experience of these formulations. However, current trends in cosmetic science aim to develop multifunctional products, where compounds traditionally used for texture or fragrance also possess biological activities that contribute to the product’s efficacy. In this context, this study focuses on synthesizing derivatives of phytol—a compound already presents in cosmetic formulations—to enhance its anti-aging properties. The derivatives were synthesized through esterification with substituted benzoic and cinnamic acids, known for their antioxidant and enzyme inhibition properties. Reaction yields ranged from 91.0% to 5.2%, depending on the substituents in acid derivatives. The structures of the synthesized compounds were confirmed through NMR and MS techniques. Both the natural and newly synthesized derivatives were evaluated for their cosmeceutical potential using antioxidant assays and inhibition assays for tyrosinase, elastase, collagenase, and hyaluronidase. This work presents the first report of the synthesis and cosmetic evaluation of several of these derivatives. Comparing with phytol (1), which presented an IC50 of 77.47 µM, four of the derivatives presented improved tyrosinase inhibitory activity, with phytyl 4-methoxybenzoate being the most active (IC50 = 27.9 µM), followed by phytyl benzoate with an IC50 of 34.73 µM. Substitutions at other positions on the aromatic ring were less effective. Molecular docking studies confirmed that the modifications potentiated a stronger interaction between the synthesized compounds and tyrosinase.
  • Ionic Liquids and Deep Eutectic Solvents for Polyphenol Extraction: Opportunities and Limitations
    Publication . Rosa, Gonçalo; Barreto, Maria do Carmo; Seca, Ana; Pinto, Diana; Vlase, Ana-Maria
    Polyphenols are structurally diverse plant secondary metabolites with broad biological activities and growing applications across the food, health, and materials sectors. Conventional extraction based on organic solvents (e.g., methanol, ethanol) is often energy-intensive, inefficient, and environmentally burdensome. Ionic liquids (ILs) and deep eutectic solvents (DESs) have therefore emerged as greener alternatives for polyphenol extraction. This review evaluates recent advances in solvent design, extraction performance, and process sustainability. Imidazolium-based ILs frequently achieve high yields and selectivity, particularly when coupled with ultrasound or microwave-assisted extraction, but high cost, synthetic complexity, viscosity-related constraints, and potential toxicity hinder scaleup. By contrast, DESs—especially those derived from choline chloride or lactic acid—are easier to prepare, less costly, and more compatible with industrial implementation, with efficiency enhanced by tailoring hydrogen bond networks, water content, and process intensification. Critical downstream challenges persist for both solvent classes, notably in extract purification and solvent recovery due to low volatility; approaches such as resin adsorption, antisolvent precipitation, and direct formulation have been explored. Overall, ILs and DESs represent compelling alternatives to conventional solvents, and future progress will depend on integrated extraction–recovery strategies, systematic solvent selection, and validation under scalable, sustainable processing conditions.